R6 Upgrades

[GreenMachine]

Hey Bumblebee. The only thing that helps to give it more grunt is what JENX said. You need to get a bigger sprocket for the rear. Also a tooth smaller in the front sprocket. The typical upgrade is one down in the front and 2 up in the rear. If you do that, again, like JENX said, I would also recommend doing a 520 chain upgrade as well. But the thing to remember there is you will loose top end when you lower your gear ratio. Honestly though it is an upgrade I would recommend. You don't need all the top end they come with from the factory. And the other tip is like turn burgler said, keep it over 10000 rpm to stay in it's power band. I know that is unrealistic for the street, but unfortunately that is a 600 for you. Even on the street I would keep it above 6k rpm just so you have something there if you need it to make any quick maneuvers.

And the answer is yes. An upgraded air filter is always a good idea. You probably won't notice a big difference unless you get an aftermarket exhaust with it though. Money money money.   Hope that helps.

Both [are] good ideas.  I'm just repeating what others are confirming,...

On my older 900 the exhaust made the biggest difference in getting more A/F through the engine.  Probably comparable to running the bike a few thousand feet lower.  Sunday's ride to the coast confirms the [atmospheric] science and what Team Gorgonzola said, get it down to sea level and just TRY to keep the front wheel down!  I saw no difference with stock versus K&N/BMC air filter, other than these are lifetime elements.  I run stock gearing, but lots of people like lower gearing.  Preference.

As you'll find, many mods will have a cost, either up front or in some other subtlety.

Come join SSA on Tuesday night.  Trinie's usually there.

[BumblebeeR6]

let me just help you all get to know my bike for better understanding i have a graves motorsport pipe on it, so i upgraded that and as for sprokets i looked into that for sure and when i get money that'll be next. Im stuck on what air filter to get whether it be knn or bcs. Also i have a power commander and some small factory tweeks on the bike as well!

[youngster775]

let me just help you all get to know my bike for better understanding i have a graves motorsport pipe on it, so i upgraded that and as for sprokets i looked into that for sure and when i get money that'll be next. Im stuck on what air filter to get whether it be knn or bcs. Also i have a power commander and some small factory tweeks on the bike as well!

did you have your pipe mapped to your power commander yet? very important.

[Adiggity]

In that case your pretty much at your max unless you want to do some motor work. Do your sprocket upgrade, get a air filter then have it tuned. You'll be good to go. 

[mikey]

I don't have a r6  but I am down I tooth in front and up 2 in the back

most everybody will change the gear ratio on their bike so we don't have to be over a hundred mph to be in 6th gear and hopefully be able to go through a school zone in first without pulling the clutch  every twenty feet.

call steve at 2wcp 3031857 for chain and sprockets maybe down 1 in front and up 4 in back
i think you will feel that

[mikey]

let me just help you all get to know my bike for better understanding i have a graves motorsport pipe on it, so i upgraded that and as for sprokets i looked into that for sure and when i get money that'll be next. Im stuck on what air filter to get whether it be knn or bcs. Also i have a power commander and some small factory tweeks on the bike as well!

if you have the PCIII already have it mapped at    SPL  brian 825 4457

[NVKrawler]

I have an 06r6 and have done quite a bit to it from full exhaust, having SPL tune my PCIII and other tweaks here and there... The best thing you can do to that bike is re-gear it. I used sprocket specialties and the whole kit was $145 or so but it was hands down the best bang for the buck for what you are looking for. Made riding around town much easier. As far as the air filter goes, go BMC all the way, K&N have been known to be more restrictive on some bikes from what I have read.

[A DRAGON]

What sprocket combination did you change too? Were the aluminum or steel? Did you change the length of the chain?

I changed the sprockets combination on my Kawasaki ZX9R to make it slower on top end. Torquer on the bottom. Now it seems like 4,5 and 6 gear are all the same.

I use steel sprockets because their cheaper. I'm going to change them at the end of the year anyway. So why not save the money. Aluminum is lighter but more expensive and less durable.

I usually change from Factory chains to 520's that seems to be the common length everyone is going to.

I know the bikes are different but not all that different. Just asking for an opinion.

[NVKrawler]

What sprocket combination did you change too? Were the aluminum or steel? Did you change the length of the chain?

I changed the sprockets combination on my Kawasaki ZX9R to make it slower on top end. Torquer on the bottom. Now it seems like 4,5 and 6 gear are all the same.

I use steel sprockets because their cheaper. I'm going to change them at the end of the year anyway. So why not save the money. Aluminum is lighter but more expensive and less durable.

I usually change from Factory chains to 520's that seems to be the common length everyone is going to.

I know the bikes are different but not all that different. Just asking for an opinion.

I buy steel sprockets, little cheaper and last longer. I have had mine on there for 2 years and doesnt really show any wear yet. I did switch to a 520 chain but I was under the impression that was the width of the chain, not the length. I could be wrong there though. When i swapped it def made the bottom end come alive, but as far as the top gears seeming the same I didnt really notice that effect. I sure do get to 6th much quicker than before and traveling for distances is a PITA because you are always in a higher RPM range.

[2wcp]

As Adam has stated, the best option is going with gearing. It changes where the power curve is in the RPM range, not how much power the bike has. You lose a little top end, maybe 10-15 depending on gearing. How often are you topping the bike out anyways. It will get into the power band sooner with smaller front or larger rear gearing. As far as steel vs aluminum. I would suggest steel as it will last longer and usually be cheaper. On a 600 I would also go with a 520 chain. It is the width of the chain not the length. The 520 is not only cheaper but more readily available than the other sizes.

I would also get the BMC.

[n10sive]

As Adam has stated, the best option is going with gearing. It changes where the power curve is in the RPM range, not how much power the bike has. You lose a little top end, maybe 10-15 depending on gearing. How often are you topping the bike out anyways. It will get into the power band sooner with smaller front or larger rear gearing. As far as steel vs aluminum. I would suggest steel as it will last longer and usually be cheaper. On a 600 I would also go with a 520 chain. It is the width of the chain not the length. The 520 is not only cheaper but more readily available than the other sizes.

I would also get the BMC.

Just out of curiosity, do you think it is worth doing a 530 vs 520 for longer life? (I believe I am running a 530 on my SV track bike)

[2wcp]

I don't see how a 520 vs 530 would give you longer life. If you take care of the chain properly it will last for a long time. 15-20k mi. if you don't take care of it, it can start to go bad in 5-6k mi. The 600's and 650's aren't going to exceed the tensile strength of a 520 so there should be no worries on it streatching the chain. On a 1000 I would run 530 for the street/trackday, for racing I run a 520 but its also a $250 chain. So it still has a higher tensile strength for the 1000.

[n10sive]

longer life = less stretching (due to higher gauge rollers). Only what I have read...that's why I am asking an expert since we are talking about chains

[2wcp]

longer life = less stretching (due to higher gauge rollers). Only what I have read...that's why I am asking an expert since we are talking about chains

I understand what your getting at, but because of the tensile strength of chains now of days, which would affect the stretching, there isn't going to be excessive stretching with a 520. I'm also talking if you get a good quality chain.

[jlavallee]

longer life = less stretching (due to higher gauge rollers). Only what I have read...that's why I am asking an expert since we are talking about chains

I understand what your getting at, but because of the tensile strength of chains now of days, which would affect the stretching, there isn't going to be excessive stretching with a 520. I'm also talking if you get a good quality chain.

Both of the guys are actually correct here. Some manufacturers such as Tsubaki always indicate tensile stregnth as the point where the metal goes into the plastic deformation part of the curve. Some call tensile the point where the ultimate is reached (i.e. the point where it breaks) and for this reason, you need to compare apples to apples. (watch out for cheapies using this)

For the track, the weight savings and fact that you don't usually ride in dirt/rain or for long periods without adjustment give the 520 merit. For the street with a 600 it is still OK but watch the aluminum rear sprockets as their wear pattern will play a big role on chain life. For my money, on the street I'll have steel and 530 or 525 for anything 600cc up. Really depends on price and how maintained you keep your kit. Below 1000cc I think many are now 525 anyway from the factory. You can likely go down one in the front and up one in the back with just sprockets and the stock chain. Try just a new -1 in the front to see what you think and it'll cost like $20.

There is a company that used to make a aluminum hub/steel sprocket ring a couple of years ago for best of both worlds. Steve might know if they are any good. Seems like a logical idea.